Clearly I’m No Rick Steves

Travels in Ireland.

Clearly, I’m No Rick Steves

Rick Steves is the undisputed heavyweight champion of tour guides. Sure, he overuses “convivial,” but the man can pack light and plan like a machine. I, however, am not Rick Steves. Not even close.

Over the years, I’ve become the de facto tour guide. Not by choice. I must admit I’m a reluctant leader. In fact, I don't even think of myself as a leader. As my old boss and wonderful mentor, Dave Rodgers, told me years ago, “Chuck, you may not know it, but you ARE a leader.” He then went on to explain my style of leadership as leading from behind. I think I may have done an “awe shucks” and then went on believing I’m not a leader. Yet, here I am doing a poor man’s version of Rick Steves, fumbling through Ireland with Google Maps and good intentions.

As Tour Guide, I’ve been spending evenings and part of each morning prepping for the day’s activities. The routine is sort of the same: map out the itinerary for the day, gather up the Google directions/routing, set a time for us to launch (aka “wheels up” time). If we are checking out of an Airbnb, then I’m scooping out what we need to do (strip beds, trash, etc) and making sure I’ve got the check-in details.

Now, Rick Steves would have all that shit locked down and details out to his peeps each morning. Me, not so much. I may get the mapping set and then forget to share it with my family. I could read the destructions for check out, tell half the crew, and forget to share with the other half. I may have three stops on the docket and fail to share the middle one with anyone. Clearly, I’m no Rick Steves.

Before I get into the recent travel shenanigans, I need to make sure you are up to speed with the Ireland experience so far. If you haven’t already, please, please, please read through Brenda’s post from last week. Now that you are all on the same page (see tour guide mode engaged), let's hit some highlights and misadventures in being a tour guide.

I may have mentioned that I love a good pub or bar. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest bar in Ireland is Sean’s Bar in Athlone. The site where the bar stands dates back to 900 AD. While they may not have been pouring Guinness, it appears this ford on the river Shannon has been a popular place to rest and enjoy a pint (or three). It took nearly an hour from Galway to get to Sean’s Bar, but it was worth every kilometer. We found a cozy nook, soaked in the knick-knacks and pints, and reluctantly peeled ourselves away for a soccer match back in Galway

Galway was playing their arch-rivals, Sligo. Well, I think they’re rivals. Honestly, I just went with it. Beyond what I’ve learned watching Ted Lasso, I know zip about soccer. The crowd was lively and animated. I swear when one of the Sligo players went down with a kick to the shins, the Galway crowd was yelling “Wanker! Wanker!”. Thanks, Galway, for that wonderful Ted Lasso moment.

While the game was great fun, the best part was walking into the stadium. A fellow with Sligo colors started up a conversation, and we chatted the nearly quarter-mile walk to the stands. I believe his name was Bart (but it could have been Bert). He was originally from Poland. Twenty years prior, as a young man, he made his way to Ireland for work. He met his future wife and never left. I’m not sure if Rick Steves would have put soccer on his itinerary, but I’m sure he would have approved of spending time talking with the people who live in this land we are visiting.

If Rick Steves were your guide in Ireland, you’d get the full poetic backstory on William Butler Yeats. With me, you get “Hey, a castle! Let’s go.” After stops at Kilmacdough Abbey (somewhat haunting ruins) and Coole Park (wonderful woods trail), we arrived at Thoor Ballylee Yeats Castle. Here we learned that Yeats had made this place his home during the summers of 1921 to 1929 with his wife, George, and their children. The 15th-century tower is impressive and evidently inspiring, as “The Tower” by Yeats was the product of his time there. The staff at the tower were incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. They shared that Yeats was into mysticism and the occult. One room in the middle of the tower was used for seances. Yeats believed he was communicating with a Norman soldier. We didn’t experience any paranormal activity, but we did enjoy a lovely tea and fruit bread snack at the end of our visit (all part of our entry fee!)

If you have read Rick Steves' guidebooks or watched his series on PBS, you know he seeks balance when traveling. He mixes in history, with some culture, a bit of walking or hiking, and stops for great food. Clearly, I’m no Rick Steves. My approach is to mix things by day and pile it on. One day may be a history-focused overload, and the next miles of walking in the city or on the trail. My family puts up with my pacing (or lack of).

As we made our way further north along the west coast of Ireland toward Sligo, we stopped at Connemara National Park. This vast park is breathtaking. The green mountain slopes leading to rock-strewn tops surrounded by pastures fit perfectly with my mind’s eye portrait of Ireland. The park is home to part of the mountain range known as the Twelve Bens (Benna Beola). While there are a few marked trails, most of the park is left untamed and open for exploration.

One of the marked trails will take you to the top of Diamond Hill. Not quite tall enough to qualify as a true mountain at 442 meters (1450 feet), I was told it provides stunning views of the other mountains. My family was not keen on a hill climb, so I set off on my own, leaving the car keys with Brenda just in case I was abducted by the fairies.

Clearly, I’m no Rick Steves as I left the troop to fend for themselves, while I busted a move up that hill. I have to share that it was glorious. I love mountains and strenuous hikes. This one was a fantastic trail in great shape that made the ascent feel easy. While my heart was pounding, the sun and the beauty of this place absorbed me completely. The skies were blue and nearly cloudless, leaving the views unlimited from the top. After a brief time to snap some photos and enjoy the wind cooling me down, I nearly sprinted down the stone steps back to my crew.

We finished our day with a visit to Kylemore Abbey, which is currently part museum and part home to some Benedictine nuns. We arrived just in time for a history talk that provided a wealth of information on the origins of this grand building and the vast estate (which at one time had included what is now Connemara National Park). All in all, a lovely day, as they say, in Ireland.

Part of the playbook in Rick Steves' tour books is talking with the locals. We stopped into the tourism office in Sligo to get the lay of the land and see what we might be missing. Here we met Pascal.

He was a jovial ray of sunshine who shared his love for not only Sligo, but Donegal and beyond with us. We also talked with Sean, who shared a bit on the legendary Second Battle of Moytura. This bit of Irish folklore apparently was introduced to George Lucas by the author Joseph Campbell and is said to have led to the creation of Star Wars. By the way, if you are in search of a driver and/or a guide on your trip to Ireland, Sean offers his services via Sligo Welcome Ambassador.

One facet of the endless allure of Ireland is its coastline, particularly on the western edge. As grand as the Cliffs of Moher can be, I found the sea stack at Downpatrick Head (Dún Briste) to exceed in natural wonder. We wandered the dangerous coast, being sure to stay a safe distance from the edge (and not be an idiot who falls to their death taking a selfie). Seabirds filled the air ,adding to the mystical quality of this area.

Just up the road, we ventured to Céide Fields. This is potentially the world’s oldest stone-walled fields, dating back 6000 years!! Once again, we lucked out on catching a tour just as we arrived. Our guide explained how the ancient stone walls were discovered buried under centuries of blanket bog. The bog preserved artifacts, which allowed scientists to date and reveal through DNA analysis that these Stone Age people had traveled from Iran to settle in Ireland. It was mindblowing to consider the audacity of these folks who braved the unknown to make a home.

Even Rick Steves would admit that part of the joy of travel is the unexpected. After a day with a nice, long hike rewarded with amazing vistas at Slieve League, followed by a visit to Donegal Castle, we made it out to our rental in Church Hill. This little town sits just to the west of Letterkenny in County Donegal. Hungry, tired, and thirsty from our travels, we headed to Wilkin’s Bar and Lounge.

Evidently, early Thursday evenings aren’t a popular time, as we had this wonderful place all to ourselves. James was manning the bar and front of the house. He was a nice fella who poured a fine Guinness. My brother-in-law Greg soon had James chatting about his life in Ireland. I think Greg may have invited James to Thanksgiving dinner, but I can’t be sure.

At first, we were concerned that James was running the kitchen too. However, an older man with a brilliant smile strolled in asking how we were. He introduced himself as Victor Wilkins, and he shared that seven generations of Wilkins had called this building their home.

Turns out Victor was the cook, and he set about preparing our food. It wasn’t too long before another young man who looked very much like Victor came by to say hello. We soon learned that this was Victor’s son Mark who helped in serving our meals.

Thanks to Greg’s gift of gab, we learned that Mark had been working on the family farm and had recently done some turf cutting.

In Ireland, many homes are still heated by burning turf or peat, which is cut from the bog. Victor chimed in that turf cutting is becoming a thing of the past as fewer folks spend the time and labor needed to cut and dry the turf. However, a storm in January cut power to many, leaving those who didn’t burn turf in the cold. Perhaps the old ways are still viable under the right circumstances.

Before we left, Victor shared some must-see sights while we were in Donegal. We watched intently and listened with a keen ear as he shared a particularly lovely spot on the map. I must say, I lost myself a bit listening and absorbing the kindness and joy shared by these people at Wilkin’s Bar and Lounge. I believe it is these encounters, as well as the sights and sounds of a foreign land, that make travel so valuable.

While there are times when the weight of guiding takes its toll, those special moments running up a giant hill, casting my eyes over a beautiful vista, or listening to voices that greet you like old friends in a country that’s not your own, make it all worthwhile. A shared smile, a local’s laugh, and a hot meal after a long day on the road, those are the moments that stick. Clearly, I’m no Rick Steves. But maybe being Chuck is good enough.

Upcoming Events You Won't Want to Miss

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Judy Banker at Batch Brewing on May 29

Sounds and Sights on Thursday Nights in Chelsea - Starts on June 5

Voyag3r with Cavalcade and Lucius Fox at the Avenue Cafe in Lansing on May 31

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Life In Michigan Podcast

Have you checked out the Life In Michigan podcast? Man, it rocks!! The current edition features author, historian, and promoter of all things Michigan, Dianne Higgs Stampfler. She shares insights on her latest book, Kalamazoo County Characters.

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Adventures Yet To Print

I promise, I will work on the Detroit Vinyl story when I get back from Ireland. In the meantime, head over to Life In Michigan, read several stories, and then report back.

What Are You Reading? What Are You Spinning?

Not much reading or music is happening while in Ireland. However, I did find a guitar :)

That’s A Wrap

As my buddy Sturgill once said:

“Keep your head out of the clouds

And remember to be kind

And just stay in school

Stay off the drugs

And keep between the lines.”

Thank you for reading. I hope your week is awesome! Don’t forget to kick out the jams!

Now, here is your moment of zen: